The Baja Ferries

Traveling Across the Sea of Cortez

Story and Photos by Jim Foreman
Sponsored by Mexican Insurance Store.com

When looking at any map of Mexico, one’s eyes are immediately drawn to the Baja California Peninsula.

This unique region of Mexico is known for phenomenal weather, excellent wines, playful resorts, and a diverse topography featuring mountains, deserts, sea, and ocean.

By this time one begins to wonder, “Now I’ve explored Baja, Now What?” Alternatively, a traveler may decide it’s more interesting to travel north back to the US or Canada via Baja California.

How does one easily get across with a vehicle?  The answer is, “Take the ferry across.”

Now, a typical Norte Americano will think, “I’ll just go online and book passage.” Quickly, if not immediately, one will become quite confused and frustrated.

Booking passage on the ferry is not terribly complicated or confusing, as long as you do it like a Mexican.

Mazatlan office of Baja Ferries

Ferry Options

Ferry Routes by Martin McGowan

Two companies operate ferry service between Baja California and mainland Mexico. The primary and biggest company is Baja Ferries. Baja Ferries operates several ships between Topolobampo (Los Mochis) and La Paz and Mazatlán and La Paz.

Alternatively, a much smaller and more infrequent ferry, Ferry Santa Rosalía operates between Guaymas, Sonora and Santa Rosalía, BCS.

Ferry Basics

It’s easy to book passage on a ferry. That said, when traveling by car, you should not book it too far in advance unless you plan on sailing during one of Mexico’s holiday celebrations.

The best and most reliable way to book passage by ferry is to go, in person, to one of the many ticket offices in the vehicle you wish to transport. If you are traveling in anything other than a standard car, the complexity skyrockets. Additionally, if you want to book a cabin, that is also fraught with confusion. Go in person. The website is helpful to know the addresses of the ticket offices and the hours and days of operation. Nine out of ten travelers who try to book passage online get it wrong and end up in a much more complicated situation.

The ferry can accommodate any vehicle that is roadworthy. Bicycles, motorcycles, cars, light trucks, box vans, recreational vehicles (RVs), trailers, and semi-trucks with trailers are all welcome. If you are taking any vehicle other than a standard car, light pickup, SUV, or motorcycle, it will need to be measured. The tariff or fee is calculated based on its length, and possibly it’s width.

The ferries DO NOT run every day.  Check their respective websites to learn what days they travel from your embarkation point.

Fees

Here is where gets very confusing, very quickly. There are up to four different costs you will need to pay. The first one is for yourself. Each person traveling on the ferry must pay for transit. In most cases, the vehicle fee will include the driver, but only the driver. Any additional passengers will have to pay separately. The second fee is for the vehicle. The third fee is optional, and that is for a private cabin. The fourth and final expense is the La Paz Port Fee which ranges from $76MN to $254MN depending on the type and size of your vehicle. Motorcycles pay $76MN each. Cars pay $153MN. This fee is collected separately when arriving or departing La Paz.

Current Baja Ferries rates and Santa Rosalia Ferries rates are available on their respective websites. Again, it’s confusing.

What’s Included In Your Fare?

The standard fare includes passage, use of a comfortable airline type seat with lots of legroom, and a meal. The seats often have movies playing. It’s wise to bring earplugs if you intend to sleep.

An included meal is served at the beginning of the trip and is basic, at best.  There is also breakfast meal served on the run between Mazatlan and La Paz. Do not expect gourmet. It’s not hospital food, but it’s not awesome either.

A la carte items and snacks are available at vending machines, the lounge, and shops, on the ferry. They are priced only slightly higher than an Oxxo. They will have bottled water, sodas, candy, and snacks.

Baja Ferries California Star

What to Expect

The Baja Ferries (both Baja Ferries and Santa Rosalia Ferry) are NOT Princess Cruises. It’s best to not act like a princess with your expectations or demands. The ferries are clean and comfortable but mostly utilitarian. Most have a lounge, often with live entertainment. Usually, one or two bars are also available up until around midnight.

Baja Ferries operates mostly larger ships that once served European ferry companies. Most were built in the 1990s and 2000s.

The Santa Rosalia Ferry is rather small. Availability is quite limited. This is particularly the case for larger vehicles. It’s an older ship with much fewer amenities, also.

The voyage duration between Santa Rosalia and Guaymas is approximately 10 hours. Expect around 7 hours from Topolobampo to La Paz and 13 hours between Mazatlan and La Paz.  These are the actual voyage times and do not factor loading and unloading.

Many of the electrical outlets will be 240v and use the standard European plug. Most computer and phone chargers will work at 120v or 240v. Having a European to North American adapter will enable you to stay fully juiced while others look helplessly for North American power sockets. Use this as a great opportunity to make friends by offering use of your adapter.

Many passengers will set up bunks or mats with sleeping bags in the open passenger compartment. On warmer days, they may also set these up outside. Unless the ferry is at capacity, there is plenty of seating room. They are comfortable seats. Restrooms are a different story. It’s best to use them early. You would be wise to bring baby wipes for both the toilet and your personal needs. If you have to go, and it’s late (or early in the morning), it's ok to utilize the family or disabled restroom for a cleaner and more comfortable experience.

Earplugs and something to cover your eyes are a great idea. The movies play at loud volumes. Often, one can be a hero by turning the volume down a little, on the TV.

Are Cabins Worth the Extra Money?

This is a much more subjective question. Generally speaking, yes.  Cabins range in price from $860MN to $1560MN (as of January 2017) ranging from Estandar (Standard pictured) to Master Suite VIP.  The cabins will be quieter. You’ll have your own restroom, shower, and a comfortable bunk. Don’t expect towels folded into animal shapes. The cabin offerings may vary from ship to ship. The earlier you go and book your passage the more likely you are to get a cabin. If you don’t get a cabin, it’s not the end of the world. Just keep a sense of humor and your expectations in check.

What You Need to Do and Bring to Book a Reservation

-Bring your state driver’s license and passport of all the people who will travel.

-Vehicle registration may be asked for, so have it available.

-Temporary Vehicle Import Permit, especially if going to the mainland. You WILL be asked for this when departing La Paz. Make sure you have one.

-Bring your license plate number of your vehicle. Just write it down.

-Payment, in cash or credit card.

If you don’t speak Spanish, there is often someone available who is reasonably good at English. Ask 'Habla Ingles?' kindly. They are professional and work hard to help you out. Do not be a jerk if you don’t get your way or if cabins are not available. Whining about it will only make you look pathetic and make them less likely to help you.

Forming the line to board the ferry

How it Works On the Day of Travel

Have your ticket(s) with you at all times. They will be checked and marked several times.

You will be told to arrive a couple of hours early. You will be directed through several inspection points. Be patient and courteous. One of those checkpoints will be to confirm you have a TVIP. Make sure your sticker or paperwork is readily visible.

Trucks are loaded first. The first vehicles boarding will be the last ones off. Motorcycles can go to the front as they are usually tucked into a corner or under a staircase.

Let the staff guide you as to where to wait with your vehicle. Again, be patient.

Special Instructions for Motorcycles

If you are on a motorcycle, they often have straps there, but it’s best to have a couple of your own, especially if there are a lot of bikes traveling. Strapping points may not be ideal. Remember it’s only a gentle swaying and not the harshness of being on a trailer or pickup.

It’s advisable to center-stand your bike if you have one. Only two straps are needed. One at the front and one at the back to keep your bike from moving. You can also secure your bike with only one strap across the seat or a sturdy part of the frame. Remember, it’s a ship. There are no sudden stops or starts. Expect only gentle swaying.

Special Instructions for RVs

The ferry loading team will probably have you gather with the trucks. You will be backing your rig in. It’s best not to be distracted by family or devices during this process. You will not be allowed on your RV or to stay in your RV during the voyage.

Special Instructions for Non-Driving Passengers

Baggage will be x-rayed and checked into a cargo hold. You will not have access to any of these items during your voyage.

Bring anything you need during the voyage as carry-on.

Transporting Pets

Any pets must be in their own carrier and are taken to a special pet section. They will be kept in their carrier the entire time. While you wait to board, it’s best to give them every opportunity to run, play, and potty before boarding the ferry. No, they can’t go with you or stay in your vehicle.

Outside Food and Drink

The rules state you cannot bring alcohol or outside food. This rule is only lightly enforced. If you pack some quesadillas or burritos in your carry on bag, no biggie. Be discrete. Do not bring plates or boxes of food. They will not be allowed, and the ferry loading staff will enjoy dining on your disallowed meal.

Alcohol is another gray area. Discretion is the most important rule here. If you bring a flask or transfer your beverage into a nondescript container like a reusable water bottle, there is no problem. Do not bring bottles of alcohol. Also, do not get inebriated or become the idiot borracho.

If you need to smoke, do so on deck, at the rear of the ship.

Disembarking

Leaving the ferry is usually quite orderly. When you reach port, drivers will be allowed back to their vehicles. Personal vehicles disembark first.

Once off the ship, there is a series of checkpoints by the Military, Federal Police, and Port Authority. Be calm and patient.

That’s it. It’s simple and easy so long as you keep your expectations reasonable. Do not go out of your way to read the reviews of the Ferry. Curiously, all the negative comments are written by whiny Gringos. They clearly expected everything to be to their vaulted fantasy standards. Reading them after the voyage can be quite entertaining as it’s easy to see how they were acting like princesses.

Santa Rosalia Ferry Ticket Office at the Santa Rosalia Port

Where to Book Tickets

Ticket offices are at the ports and in some of the city centers. Again, unless you are doing a simple standard package of a car and one person only, don’t book online.

Go to a ticket office. You can’t book passage for Mazatlan to La Paz at the Topolobampo ticket office. Book the trip at the city or port you intend to embark. For example, if you are staying in La Paz, Los Mochis or Mazatlan for a few days, go to the port as soon as possible, to book your tickets. This will give you your best opportunity to get a cabin.

A list of Baja Ferries offices are found on their website.

Santa Rosalia Ferries offices are at their respective ports.

Driving in Mexico and especially taking the ferry across the Sea of Cortez is an adventure. Before you cross the border into Mexico make sure you have your Mexican Auto Insurance. Not only is it the law, but the coverage includes roadside assistance and many other valuable benefits.

It’s easy to shop, buy, and print your top rated coverage at MexicanInsuranceStore.com. Policies are available for any duration from one day to one year.
©2017 Jim Foreman  All Rights Reserved.

First Time Traveling Into Mexico

A Guide for First-Time Overland Travelers

Story by Jim Foreman

Many people throughout Canada and the United States have visited Mexico on holiday. Mexico’s idyllic beaches, warm winters, and high value for the money have made it a top destination in the western hemisphere. Despite overblown safety concerns by US news and media outlets, hundreds of thousands of US and Canadian citizens are in Mexico at any given time. If you have concerns about safety, please read this article for a no-nonsense perspective about Safety in Mexico.

A majority of visitors arrive by air into Mexico. Necessities like a visa are handled proficiently at the airport.

What happens when you wish to traverse Mexico in your vehicle? Whether by car, motorcycle, or RV, Mexico makes an equally charming and festive destination over land.

Though it’s relatively easy to travel with your vehicle into Mexico, there are several things you must do and have in order before you depart.

It’s also imperative to take care of some tasks after you cross the border and prepare to follow-up before you leave.

Don’t be dismayed. It’s not difficult. With so many fantastic destinations, the hardest part will probably be deciding where to go.

First Things First 

Do you have a Passport or US Passcard? Since 2007, you must have one to re-enter the United States. The good old days of presenting a birth certificate and drivers license are long past. This rule doesn’t mean that you will be refused entry back into the United States if you forgot your passport or don't have one. Do expect to be considered foolish by the border agent, to be chastised and possibly have to go through a secondary screening, upon your return.

Additionally, you will need a full passport if you intend to get a 7-day or 180-day tourist visa. If you’re just hopping across the border for an overnight, weekend, or day trip, the Passcard works fine. Fortunately, Canadians are pretty smart about this. US Citizens have the most difficulty grasping that they need to have a passport to cross international borders. Most get it, but an alarmingly high number of people still don’t.

You can download the passport application from the US State Department website and learn where you can submit it along with your photo and money order for the fees.

Visas and Temporary Vehicle Import Permits

The next thing to think about is whether you need a Mexican Visa and Temporary Vehicle Import Permit.

Unless one is a Mexican national, a tourist visa is technically required for anyone from the US or Canada who plans to do anything more than a day trip into Mexico.  Now that sums up the technical aspect.  The reality is a little different.  

If you try to ask for a tourist visa for an overnight or weekend in Ensenada or elsewhere in Baja California or the Sonora Hassle Free Zone, officials will wave you away unless you insist on one.  Here's the reality.  If you plan on staying less than 72 hours in Baja California, within the Hassle Free zone in Sonora, or within a border city, don't bother with a visa.  If you plan on staying longer, get the 180 day visa (around $25USD).  It's good for multiple overland visits to Mexico within the 180 day period.  Though visitors should turn them in at the end of their stay, there's no penalty if you don't.  The free 7-day visa does incur a penalty if not turned in or turned after the 7-day period.

The need for a Temporary Vehicle Import Permit (TVIP) has a familiar ring to it.  If you are traveling within Baja California or Baja California Sur and will NOT take the ferry over to the mainland, one does not need a TVIP.
Also in Sonora, within the Hassle Free Zone which includes everything west of Agua Prieta to Imuris and down to Guaymas, no TVIP is needed.
If travel beyond Guaymas is planned a TVIP is necessary.  The cost of a TVIP is about $65USD.  A refundable deposit of $200USD, $300USD, or $400USD is collected either in Cash or preferably Credit Card.  It's good for 180 days or the remaining time on your tourist visa.  

One needs to decide if they want to get their Mexican Visa and Temporary Vehicle Import Permit (TVIP) before they cross into Mexico or after they cross the border. The vast consensus of experienced travelers points to waiting and getting both at the border crossing INM immigration station and Banjercito.  Many people don’t realize that International Mail or delivery service takes much longer than the already slow US Mail.  Additionally, one may decide on a different vehicle to take, when the trip is actually made.  From the main roads in mainland Mexico, there is an Immigration checkpoint between 20Km and 35Km south of the border that you need to utilize. Simply and quickly get everything handled in a few minutes and be on your way. It’s a cinch.

Temporary Vehicle Import Permit from Mexico

While an 180 Day Visa is not a big deal if it gets lost, you are on the hook if your TVIP is lost or does not arrive before your trip. Imagine if something happens to your car such as it gets stolen, is in a serious collision, or totaled before you cross into Mexico. You will incur tremendous difficulties on the Mexican side. It will be excruciating gathering all the documentation and visiting over one-half-dozen different offices, in Mexico, to convince the Aduana of what happened and avoid paying the import penalty (about half of the value of the vehicle) and recovering your deposit.

Important Travel Tip

Don’t try to pre-book everything unless you are visiting during a holiday week or weekend like Semana Santa.  Relax, when you are ready to stop there will be many lodging options and then you won’t be tempted to do something daft like drive at night to the next city because you had a reservation.

Insurance

The most important thing one should do before departing to Mexico is to acquire your Mexican Auto Insurance online. Unless you travel with $300K USD in your car in the event of a collision, you must have Mexican Auto Insurance. That is unless you like the idea of staying in a Mexican jail. No, your US coverage is most likely not valid when you cross the border.  Check your policy for coverages.

If you wish to acquire travel insurance to cover against mishaps, consider AIG TravelGuard or World Nomads.

Both of these will cover you medically in the event of a personal accident, as well as offer some very appealing services and benefits.  Do keep in mind that medical expenses in Mexico are nowhere near as expensive as they are in the US.  Several hundred thousand Americans travel to Mexico for elective and otherwise costly medical care, annually.

It’s not a bad idea to pick up a map of Mexico at your local AAA office if you’re a member or order one on Amazon.

If you have a GPS unit, make sure to install or load the Mexico maps, if possible.

Crossing into Mexico

Gassing up before crossing at Nogales

When you cross the border, there are several things you probably need to handle.

The first is money. Here is a detailed story on how to manage money in Mexico. If you wish to exchange US Dollars into Pesos, it’s most often best to do so on the Mexican side of the border. Look for the highest 'Compra' or buy price of US Dollars.  Otherwise, find a bank ATM and withdraw some pesos.

If you chose to get your Visa and TVIP at the border, you will need to plan for a short stop at the appropriate location for your crossing. As mentioned earlier, most people find the process at the border to be straightforward and fast and with a lot less hassle than going online.

Important tip when crossing at Tijuana, BC

Depending on where you cross the border, the Immigration may be located just around the corner or up to 40 kilometers south of the international crossing. A great site to show you what to expect at certain border crossings is iOverlander.

One of the more confusing border crossings for getting your tourist visa and TVIP, if necessary is the big one in Tijuana. Once you cross the Red light-Green light lanes, hang a sharp right after the inspection area and park where the busses park.  Then you walk through several buildings and can get your tourist visa, pesos from a bank ATM and use the restroom.


Now you have your auto insurance, optional travel insurance, money, and if necessary, visas and TVIP.  All you need to do is head to your destination and enjoy the warmth, culture, value and comfort of our great neighbor to the south, Mexico.

When crossing into Mexico you must have Mexican Auto Insurance.  It's fast, easy and reliable at Mexican Insurance Store.  Simply enter your vehicle information, the dates of travel and choose the coverage you want.  It's good throughout all of Mexico and will be there for you if ever needed.  

©2016 Jim Foreman All Rights Reserved.